Italica the forgotten town

A Planetarium Mosaic floor in Italica

Today I enjoyed the glorious once in a lifetime opportunity of visiting one of the most hidden treasures of the entire Roman Empire. Located on the outskirts of Seville is the Roman settlement of Italica, founded in 206 BC, by Publius Cornelius Scipio (Scipio Africanus), it was once one of the most prosperous towns in the entire empire, however it is nowadays very much a forgotten town, and what was once one of the largest towns on the Iberian Peninsula, now struggles to attract much if any attention from the visiting public.

A map showing Ilipa in relation to Italica and Seville

The origins of Italica date back to The Battle of Ilipa, which took place in 206 BC, a few kilometres north east of Italica, a battle which was crucial to the eventual outcome of the Second Punic War. Ilipa illustrates one of the best examples of the development of the Roman army, from an inefficient disorganised force, to a well-oiled machine of conquest. The Roman army, under the command of young military genius Scipio, outwitted an estimated 70,000 strong Catharginian force, under the control of General Hasdrubal Giscon. The victory forced Hasdrubal and his commanders to flee to the refuge of Cades (Cadiz), and although it did not signify the end to the war, which continued for several more years, it was vital for the control of the Iberian Peninsula. After the victory at Ilipa Scipio Africanus intended on pursuing the fleeing Carthaginians to Cades, and thus he needed to secure the territory he had just won, as well as finding a safe refuge for his wounded soldiers, he thus established a military detachment in the nearby Turdetani village. The choice of this site was a well calculated one, its close proximity to the Guadalquivir River made it a prime location to control the communication routes, as well as linking this vital fluvial route to the inland mining areas. Many soldiers opted to stay there instead of their original origins, and thus it accelerated into one of the most prominent and sought after settlements in the empire.  By the second half of the 1^st century BC, the town was awarded the municipal statute as a town of the Roman Republic, later during the reign of Emperor Hadrian (117-138 AD), it became an official colony, hence adopting the legal and administrative systems of the Roman metropolis itself.

Broken Statue of Emperor Trajan,
which can be found in Italica

Under the Julio-Claudian emperors, Italica wreaked the vast benefits, from new legislation and economic policies, the area hence experienced a period of rapid growth, the Republic as a whole soon became far more liberalised, and by then end of the period of Flavian emperors, provincial citizens were allowed to occupy posts of substantial status and responsibility, a continuation of the legacy left by Nero. Trajan, who was born in Italica in 53 AD, governed the Rome from 98-117 AD, during his reign the Empire flourished and reached the maximum expanse in its history. Trajan loyal to his hometown went great lengths to improve the municipality, commissioning the construction of a temple, thermal baths and other grand public buildings, which led to an elevation of status for the western end of Italica, which before had been a predominantly Industrial area. In addition to this, the new aqueduct brought abundant water supplies, and the town was modernised with new water supply systems, drains, as well as enhancements to the dyke in order to stop the river theatre overflowing when the river rose. At this time, large mausoleums began to appear alongside the regular frugal tombs in the main necropolises, thus it can be assumed that there was a large population increase, due to both the improved facilities as well as the prestige brought to the town as the birthplace of the emperor. Under the reign of Hadrian, who’s family also originated from Italica, the settlement reached its pinnacle the town was extended from 14 hectares to an estimated 54 hectares, in addition the Trianeum (a large temple), was built with the architects developing the surrounding area with large mansions, semi-public buildings, and a new and much larger thermal baths. All of this however was overshadowed by the construction of the colossal amphitheatre, with an estimated capacity of 25,000 people this staggering building was the third largest in the entire empire. Italica was now a prosperous Roman Colony, governed by the rule of Rome, however the nature of its rapid development left it susceptible to an equally quick downfall.

The staggering remains of the 25,000 people capacity amphitheatre

With no administrative importance, the role of Italica soon became overshadowed by that of neighbouring Hispalis (modern day Seville). In addition to this, the death of Hadrian brought about a large recession throughout many Baetican towns and cities, including that of Italica, and further the intricate attention that had once been paid to Italica by both Trajan and Hadrian was not reciprocated by their successors. From this point onwards the town fell into a gradual decline, a shift of the bed of the Guadalquivir River left the town dry and desolate, and after this the second century buildings soon fell out of use and into ruin. In spite of this, records show that still a substantial part of Italica remained inhabited until the late 6^th century AD. Italica continued to exist and function throughout the Germanic invasion (Visigoths) and the war between Arian king, Leovigildus and his son, the Catholic Hermenegildus. The military campaign of 583 resulted in Leovigildus enforcing the walls of Italica, with the conflict ending in the imprisonment and subsequent death of his son Hermenegildus. After this came the Arab invasion of the peninsula, in 711, with minimal records from the city after their arrival it is referenced in a letter written by an Arab in the 10^th Century who refers to it as his birthplace, and is only later mentioned by a Muslim biographer in the 12^th Century who refers to it as “a city now in ruins”, hence it can be assumed that the town was completely abandoned between these two centuries.

Some of the beautiful Mosaic floors that remained,

despite pillaging

By the end of the Islamic period Italica was no longer a recognisable settlement, Italica suffered a long period plagued by extensive pillaging and destruction. Fortunately, this atrocity was soon stopped and from the beginning of the 17^th Century there began minor excavations, despite some large obstacles such as  Napoleon’s invasion of the Peninsula(1807-1813), where it suffered much pillaging from both the British and French.  In spite of this, gradual excavations continued to place, accelerating in the 20^th Century up to 1989 where it was declared an archaeological monument and complex. Since being made an archaeological monument the Spanish Ministry of Culture has been in charge in of Italica and has run numerous programmes restoring and recuperating the buildings of Italica so it can once again be appreciated for its former glory. There are few places in the world where you can go and observe such a well-kept piece of history, over 2000 years old, in almost complete privacy from the usual hustle and bustle of tourists, and thus it is with great certainty that I regard Italica as one of the best hidden treasures in the entirety of the Roman Empire.

Seville and The Alcazar

It is now, as I sit on the roof terrace of Seville’s branch of El Corte Ingles, (not exactly a cultural hotspot, but a symbol of economic prosperity as well as one of the few places with a view of the entire city's skyline) that I contemplate the wonders of this majestic city and just how it managed to flourish in the sweltering heat of Spain’s Andalusian province known by the locals as ‘the frying pan’. The city arguably hosts the largest collection of archaic monuments within the whole of Spain, thus it is with difficulty that I will attempt to truly illustrate the fine history of Seville.

Statue of Hercules, in the
nearby Almeada de Hercules

Mythology claims that Seville was created by Hercules, mortal son of Zeus, in reality however, the settlement was first created by the Tartessians in Eighth Century B.C. Since the foundation of Seville its development has largely revolved around the Guadalquivir River that runs directly through its centre. After Christopher Columbus’ discovery of America in 1492, Seville became the centre of the new world. The navigable Guadalquivir River meant that although inland, Seville could still function as a port and subsequently it did become the most important port in Spain, and the centre of Spanish colonial expansion. The money and gold brought in from the colonies allowed Seville to prosper and led to centuries of grandeur for the city.                                            

Front View of the Alcazar, onlooking the courtyard
 where Peter I would gather his hunting party 

One of the finest monuments within Seville is the Royal Alcazar, more than a thousand years old this fine palace serves to tell a story not just of Seville but Spain as a whole. Originally made by the Muslim king Al-Mutamid, in the 11^th Century, the Alcazar was designed as a fortress to protect the town from the banks of the Guadalquivir River. In the 12^th and 13^th Centuries, the Moroccan Almohad dynasty, now ruling Seville, had the walls further extended to their present boundaries today. After the Christian re-conquest, Seville fell into Christian hands, Alfonso X the Wise, King of Castille, recognised the cultural superiority of his Muslim enemies and treated the fine architecture of the Alcazar with great respect. Alfonso X did however want to make one addition to the glorious Alcazar in order to symbolize Christian triumph over the Moors. Alfonso X contracted the stonemasons of Burgos castle to intricately design and build what is known as the Gothic Palace within the Alcazar, majestically decorated to illustrate its importance, serving no real importance aside decorative.

A bust of Charles V, in the Historic  
Gardens of the Gothic Palace

The construction of the Alhambra palace in neighbouring Granada, the last Spanish settlement in the Muslim Kingdom, was of great influence to development of the Alcazar, During the 14^th Century, both Alfonso XI and his successor Peter I aimed to create a similar palace attracting Moorish artisans to reconstruct the Alcazar in the Mudejar style which had been so well executed at the Alahambra palace. In the 16^th century, the Alcazar became the central hub for trade within Seville, named as the ‘House of Trade’ which served to promote and regulate trade within the colonies of America. In the year 1526, the Alcazar was the location of the marriage of Charles V and Isabella of Portugal, annexing Portugal to the kingdom of Spain. 

The Maiden's patio, most recently restored in 2002

After the loss of trade with America in 1717, the Alcazar became progressively less important. With the arrival of Romantacism in Spain, the Alcazar received a new lease of life, with a multitude of resotrations being undertaken from the year 1832. In addition to this was the creation of the new gardens at the beginning of the 20^th Century, which were described as ‘nature humanised’, in tribute to the British Victoria Eugenia of Battenberg the wife of Alfonso XIII. The Alcazar thus illustrates all the difference influences upon Andalusia, and Spain as a whole, but underlines a recurring theme within Spanish History, a desire not to destroy, but instead to develop. Not only is this what makes Spanish towns like Seville as beautiful as they’re today, but it is what holds the key to the future of Spain, and the prosperity that will certainly flourish once again.

A Brief Introduction to the Roots of Spain

In order to contextualise the rest of the content in this blog I thought it would be appropriate idea to start with a very brief introduction and overview to the history of Spain, from its discovery to the present day.

Isabelle I queen of Castille and León

The Iberian Peninsula has held host to a multitude of cultures and people, from when it was first discovered almost 32,000 years ago. From the very beginning of its discovery, Spain has been the home of the Iberians, Tartessians, Celts, Celtiberians, Phoenicians, Greeks, Carthaginians, and this was all before Caesar Augustus’ Roman conquest in 19 BC. After the fall of the Roman Empire, Hispania was inhabited by the Suebi, and then the Visigoths, up until the invasion of the Moors in 711. General Tariq ibn Ziyad and his Arab army landed along the southern coast, wreaking havoc on the inhabitants of the region and soon capturing the entire expanse. Throughout the course of the next 750 years independent Muslim states were established throughout Iberia and the region became known as Al-Andalus. After the Region of Castille's unification with the kingdom of Leon, the northern states began a process of Reconquista, the re-conquest of all the Muslim states, which was concluded with the fall of Granada in 1492. After the fall of Granada there was the marriage of Ferdinand II of Aragon and Isabelle I Queen of Castille, this marriage brought the two dynasties together and led to the unification of the Kingdom of Spain in 1492. Now a united country, Spain endeavoured upon 3 centuries of Colonial expansion, wars of independence (against its colonies), and European conflicts including the Peninsula War (1807-1814) with Napoleon. 

General Franco giving the fascist salute

Even with a change of monarchy from Habsburg to Bourbon, Spain's decline into a 2nd rate power could not be halted, and consequently it descended into a civil war, eventually won by Franco's fascists. Spain continued under Franco's leadership from 1939 until his death in 1975. With the death of their dictator Spain underwent a period of extensive liberalisation, marked most evidently by the electoral victory of the Socialist PSOE party, and the return to the Bourbon monarchy (Which had been in exile since Alfonso XIII had fled in 1931). Spain joined the EEC (now EU) in 1986, from this point Spain experienced two centuries of an economic boom, cut short by the economic crisis of 2008, since then Spain has endured 5 years of mass unemployment, and a two year recession, with the country in turmoil. However, from the end of October 2013, Spain officially came out its recession with its economy growing 0.1 percent from the previous third. Now in 2014, it is beginning a process of gradual recovery in an attempt to return to the prosperity it had obtained before the economic crisis.